The USA FDA notes products containing alpha-hydroxy acids, or AHAs for short are employed in anti aging skin protection cosmetics because they do cause exfoliation of surface skin. The effect relies on the concentration of AHAs in the products together with the effect of other ingredients.
AHAs work in the pores once soaked up and start to cause the skin to dump the topmost layer of dead epidermal cells. As the dead cells at the ‘top’ of skin are removed, healthy new cells from deeper layers come to the surface. Low concentrations (say 5-10%) are usually the staple of the (heavily sold) over the counter creams and typically contain glycolic acid, one of the five kinds of AHAs.
Higher concentrations of AHAs are utilized in a strategy dubbed ‘the chemical peel’. The British Association of Cosmetic Doctors recommends higher concentration peels should be undertaken only as a professionally administered treatment, to offer the best protection to the patient. It states the treatment can definitely help seemingly recharge skin, but will still not give a fifty year old skin the properties of a of a twenty-five year old one. The treatment produces non permanent redness and can have complications like cold-sore flare-ups.
The FDA points out that there’s a shortage of comprehensive research into the long term aftermath of AHAs on the skin from everyday consumer goods containing them. Giselle Mir, a UK Cosmetic Scientist with her own cosmetic line, goes a step further with feedback of the mechanism of AHAs on the skin. She has stated to the press she suspects the creams actions simply irritate the skin, ensuing finally in moisture loss from the top layer and early aging.
No information in this piece can ever be a replacement for medical advice. Please only consult qualified general medical and / or dermatology doctor for major skin complaints.
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